An African Safari and More with Gary Nees

By Jeremiah Kalb

Retired financial executive Gary Nees has found that employment lined his wallet, but traveling to exotic and historic places fills his soul.

The Portland, Oregon native is well versed in cost-benefit analyses and determining returns on investments. 

“I subconsciously use these same skills I honed over many years in choosing my next travel adventure,” Gary says. 

Financial costs in dollars and cents are a cost item in planning travel. Still, there are other costs he considers, sometimes of equal or greater significance. 

“These non-financial costs include the logistical hassle of plane flights and the distance and time involved in getting from Portland to somewhere on the other side of the globe,” he says. 

Gary points out local infrastructure limitations, local weather conditions, a possible foreign language, local health risks, political unrest, and, most importantly, whether Sara, his dear wife of 54 years, is willing to go with him. She doesn’t like being hot and sweaty.

“Offsetting these costs are the benefits of being in a beautiful location, experiencing a new culture, and seeing sights he has never seen before,” Gary says. “There is also the great satisfaction of returning to a beloved place previously visited.”

He’s traveled to over 40 countries since his late teens, including Mexico, where he lived for two years, Guatemala, Honduras, Belize, Spain, England, Europe, China, Vietnam, and Angkor Wat in Cambodia. 

“Sub-Saharan Africa was not high on my list until a year ago,” Gary says. Based on his calculations, it was too primitive and too expensive to travel there. Besides, Gary was thinking of many other places to visit and return.

Lifelong Learners 

Gary and Sara enjoy learning new things.

“My wife and I watch lectures from the Great Courses series while eating lunch,” he says. “We generally have three or four different series we are watching simultaneously, which we rotate through, watching from a different series each day.”

The Great Courses series offers high-quality, academically focused lectures taught by first-class professors and experts on subjects such as history, science, philosophy, and travel. Courses can range from 24 to 36 to 48 per subject.  

“Last fall, we selected a lecture series on African safaris.”

Taught by a highly experienced safari guide, the 24 episodes took the Neeses onto the plains and into the jungles of Africa from the comfort of their family room. From UNESCO World Heritage sites to stunning bird sanctuaries and national parks to hidden-gem wilderness areas, they enjoyed an exhilarating tour of Africa.

“After finishing the series, we thought this was something we should do,” Gary says. With several questions still to be answered, they knew one thing was for sure: this would not be a self-guided tour.

In 2019, Gary and Sara traveled with another couple to Peru to spend a week visiting Lima, Cusco, the Sacred Valley, and Machu Picchu. The tour company they used was G Adventures.  

“We were very pleased with how they conducted their programs,” Gary says. “So it only made sense to use G Adventures for our African safari.”

They selected a 12-day adventure to Southern Africa. They immediately called their friends from the trip to Peru. They invited them to go with them, along with another couple they had all traveled with. 

Associated with National Geographic, G Adventures could give Gary and Sara what they wanted: flexible itineraries, freedom to explore, smaller groups, safety and peace of mind, and locally based guides who could show them their destination in a way they’d miss traveling any other way. 

Anticipation for the trip was high, but something unexpected happened ten weeks before the trip. Sara took a bad fall while cleaning their church meetinghouse and broke two ribs. 

Technically, by the time they needed to pack their bags, Sara was medically cleared. Still, she knew that her barely-healed ribs could not endure the rigors of travel.  

She elected to stay behind but encouraged Gary to go with the other two couples.  

“The thought of fifty hours of being in cramped economy airplane seats and bouncing around off-road in the back of safari jeeps was more than my ribs could endure,” Sara says. “So, I just told Gary, you go, and I’ll stay home. I’ll invite my sister to come visit for a few days from Arizona.”

On May 15, 2023, feeling sad because Sara was not coming with him but excited for this new adventure, Gary and his four friends boarded a plane to Atlanta, connecting to a plane for Cape Town, South Africa.  

In the Atlanta airport, Gary met his sister and her husband, also from Portland, who was waiting at the gate next to the Cape Town departure for their flight to Johannesburg, South Africa, to begin a three-week African tour at the same time as Gary’s. 

A Big City’s Heartbeat 

“It was evening when we finally arrived at our hotel in Cape Town after more than twenty-four hours of traveling,” Gary says. 

The other two couples in his travel group just wanted to go to bed, but not Gary, he recalls after they checked into their hotel. He told himself he didn’t travel over 10,000 miles to stay cooped up in his room the first evening in this vibrant city.

The hotel was just a few blocks from the harbor and marina, with many shops, restaurants, hotels, a vast shopping mall, and a giant Ferris wheel.

Even though the weather was a bit drippy, Gary went out to see what was happening.  

Seanan McGuire said so well what Gary was feeling: “Some adventures require nothing more than a willing heart and the ability to trip over the cracks in the world.” 

When Gary came out of the mall after grabbing a burger for dinner, he saw a spirited group of 30 or 40 Black youth gathered in the plaza, dancing and singing in their native language, and the girls wearing colorful skirts with African motifs. 

He and other passersby couldn’t resist being drawn into the spectacle, their smiles mirroring the infectious happiness of the gathering. 

The sounds of the performers’ joyous singing rose like a melodic wave, blending harmoniously with rhythmic clapping. Their African lyrics told stories of community, resilience, and the vibrant spirit of youth in a city that pulses with energy. 

At this moment, the streets of Cape Town became a stage. These performers cast a spell that turned Gary’s ordinary evening of grabbing a bite to eat into a memory etched in his heart; he was fortunate enough to witness the magic of their song and dance. 

“I thought, I’m not in Portland. I’m in Africa. To have this kind of introduction was something special.” 

Gary’s three days in Cape Town included an exclusive guided tour of Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens, named by National Geographic Travel as one of the world’s 10 most magnificent gardens, a small-group tour of Cape Town and the coastal towns surrounding it, including a visit to the Cape of Good Hope and Boulder Beach to see the African penguins, and a ferry trip and walking tour of Robben Island and the apartheid-era prison where Nelson Mandela spent 17 years of his imprisonment.

After flying to Johannesburg and visiting Soweto, an important center of Africa’s anti-apartheid movement and home to its leader, Nelson Mandela, Gary’s group set out towards Kruger National Park via the magnificent Panorama Route, one of the world’s most picturesque drives. They made stops at the dramatic Blyde River Canyon and Bourke’s Luck Potholes, taking in the panoramic views of the forest-covered valley from the God’s Window viewpoint. 

Kruger National Park

Many people dream of seeing the iconic Big Five on an African safari. 

Kruger National Park, a renowned wildlife sanctuary spanning approximately 7,523 square miles in northeastern South Africa, is home to an extensive array of wildlife, including the Big Five:  lions, leopards, elephants, Cape buffalos, and rhinoceroses. 

Gary’s full day in the park started early morning, hoping to encounter the Big Five. Still, there were no guarantees according to the fine print. 

While the two safari vehicles carrying the fourteen members of Gary’s G Aventure group rumbled along the park's paved roads, anticipation filled the air. Gary’s eyes sparkled with excitement as he clutched his binoculars, leaning forward in his seat, listening to the guide-driver describe the incredible diversity of flora and fauna that call Kruger home.

“The first animal we saw was a giraffe,” Gary recalls.  

Then, driving along a park road, the group ahead of Gary’s caught the first glimpse of the elusive leopard. 
Leopards, the ninjas of the wild, navigate their territories with unmatched stealth. Still, this one was just walking along the side of the road. 

With a coat of spots that acts as nature’s camouflage, these agile hunters move in silence, expertly blending into the diverse landscapes they call home. Their nocturnal prowls and solitary lifestyle add an air of mystery, making leopards the elusive shadows of the animal kingdom. 

Two hundred feet behind the first group, Gary’s group eventually caught up to lay their eyes on the leopard just as he turned into the brush. Everyone was so thrilled to have seen him. Often, leopards are not seen at all.

“The only time we saw a leopard or any rhinos was that first day,”  Gary says.

Further along the terrain, a hush fell over the group as the safari guide, a seasoned tracker, pointed with quiet reverence toward a cluster of acacia trees. The branches danced in the gentle breeze, casting dappled shadows on the parched earth. Beneath the shade sat a regal figure—a female lion.

“We saw only that one female lion in Kruger,” Gary says. “Later on, in Karongwe Private Reserve and in Chobe National Park, we would see many more lions. But to see that first one on the first day was really exciting.”

As the safari vehicles continued and rounded a bend, the driver slowed to a stop and pointed in the distance to a lone elephant in a wash pulling leaves of the trees with his trunk and putting them in his mouth. Later on, more elephants would be seen up close in Kruger, but again, the first sighting was always exciting.

“We saw all of the Big Five on our first day in the park,” Gary says. “Our driver estimated only about 20% of visitors see all five on the first day. He was amazed.” 

Karongwe Private Game Reserve

As the sun rose over the vast landscape on the seventh day of Gary’s journey, anticipation filled the air as he and his travel mates readied themselves for a three-hour drive to Karongwe Private Game Reserve for an adventure that promised to be a highlight of their expedition—a two-day and two-night stay at the Chisomo Safari Lodge within Karongwe.

The wild animals outside Gary’s luxury tented suite at Chisomo Safari Lodge would not be like those in theme parks—they weren’t tame. 

While this safari camp was fenced to keep the largest Karongwe Private Game Reserve animals out and guests safe, impalas, warthogs, and monkeys breached the fence regularly and freely roamed inside the compound. 

“We had strict rules,” Gary says. “During the day, walking around within the Chisomo compound was okay, but we were not allowed to leave our tents after retiring.” 

It was wintertime in Africa, and dark before dinner. Staff escorted guests to the dining hall and returned them each night with flashlights. 

Each morning, the camp crew swept the grounds for any unwanted animals. “A few weeks before we arrived, an elephant walked through the fence, which opened up the way for a lion to stroll through to see what was going on,” Gary says. 

Karongwe Game Reserve is a pristine wildlife sanctuary in the heart of the Limpopo Province, South Africa. Spanning over 22,240 acres of diverse landscapes, it offers a premier safari experience for nature enthusiasts and wildlife lovers.

While at the Reserve, Gary got a front-row seat for wildlife conservation. “We met with a researcher from the Endangered

Wildlife Trust’s Cheetah Metapopulation Project,” he says. “The program is managed by National Geographic grantee Vincent van der Merwe.” 

A member of Vincent’s team talked about cheetahs in South Africa and the critical research CMP is doing.

“We got to learn about efforts to protect the region’s cheetahs and other carnivores and National Geographic’s Big Cats Initiative,” Gary says. “The researcher then accompanied us on an evening wildlife safari drive to give us more insight into cheetahs and other carnivores.” 

The first-morning safari drive was tinged with the excitement of encountering untamed wildlife in their natural habitats. As Gary stepped into the safari vehicle, the air was crisp, carrying the earthy scents of the wild. With the sun not yet up, the breeze was cold in the open-air vehicles. Each of the nine seats in the safari jeeps had a lap blanket and a hot water bottle on it when the group members arrived in the morning.

As they ventured deep into the heart of the reserve, the experienced guide shared tales of the interconnected ecosystems, the habits of elusive predators, and the delicate balance that sustains life in the wild. 

Karongwe's varied ecosystems encompass expansive grasslands, dense bushveld, and meandering riverine habitats, providing a diverse and dynamic environment for the resident flora and fauna. 

Gary related how the anticipation built with each turn of the trail. The safari became a sensory adventure, with the rustling of leaves, the distant roars, and the occasional sighting of majestic animals adding layers to the experience. 

For two days, the group drove through the reserve in the early morning for four hours and did the same in the late afternoon until sundown. 

An animal sighting that Gary will never forget happened just outside their secure compound while waiting for lunch one afternoon. The Chisomo compound was situated alongside a small river that ran outside the compound fence. He noticed a sign pointing down a paved sidewalk to the edge of the compound that read: Bird Blind.

Curious if he’d catch a glimpse of any birds, he headed down the walkway, picking up his good friends, the couple he had accompanied him and Sara to Peru a few years earlier, along the way.

“The bird blind was right next to the fence,” Gary recalls. “Here was this large pond, but we saw no birds or animals. Then, all of a sudden, from behind some trees, a hippopotamus wandered down the bank and into the water. Then another. Then another.” They counted seven hippos that day. 

The hippos didn't enter the water to amuse Gary and his fellow Americans. 

A hippo’s love for water is a fascinating blend of survival and social dynamics. Their buoyant bodies make them adept swimmers, and the water serves as a natural sunscreen, protecting their sensitive skin from the African sun. 

The water also acts as a communal space for communication, play, and courtship, enhancing social bonds. 
Water is not just a habitat for hippos; it’s a vital element that intertwines with their physical well-being and social interactions, making it a central aspect of their intriguing lives.

Gary walked back to camp, delighted that he witnessed a piece of the wild unscripted and grateful for the reminder that community matters.

After spotting tons of wildlife in the Reserve over three days, it was time to catch a flight to the town of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, named after one of the most powerful waterfalls on Earth.

Breaking Bread With The Locals

​The cultural aspect of traveling can be just as enriching as the wildlife. Gary learned this firsthand when he sat down with a local family for dinner in the town of Victoria Falls. 

G Adventures founder, Bruce Poon Tip, has pointed out that community tourism is about bringing everyone into the conversation to build a community around the travel experience, not just the traveler. 

He says it’s also about bringing people to places that wouldn’t usually receive or benefit from tourism because they weren’t “on the track” - such as creating and supporting projects in areas outside of places like well-traveled Machu Picchu and Maasai Mara to make an even more significant impact.

Gary’s local guide for the two days in Zimbabwe, Tembe, took six of the group to a small open-air market in a less-touristy part of town to prepare for this special dinner. The six G Adventure group members were the only white people around. 

Their evening activity was to enjoy a traditional Zimbabwean meal using ingredients similar to the ones Gary and others had seen in the market and hear stories about local life and culture.

“I was a little uneasy about eating dinner at a local woman’s house,” Gary confesses. “You know, is this going to be dirt floors? Am I going to be sick to my stomach the following morning?” 

Already, a few in his group were not attending due to stomach issues of their own. The 78-year-old traveler played out several scenarios in his mind as he meandered through the market in this third-world country, but he pressed on. 

Upon arriving at the residence of Flatter Ncube, Gary noted a cinder block home with an iron gate and a dirt yard. 

“Tembe said what we do is we clap and say a specific word that I don’t recall,” Gary says. “This is their version of our doorbell.” 

Flatter, head of her family and the youngest of a family of 10 and now in her early 40s, came out to open the gate and welcome the group to her home. 

“She had this big table in the front yard with a tablecloth, wine glasses, and nice place settings. It looked really nice. My mind was immediately eased by this point.”

The group then met some of Flatter’s family and neighbors who helped prepare the meal.   

“We got to learn about some of the preparation,” Gary says. “They use a big long pestle to crack up the corn in many of their dishes.” On this occasion, Flatter’s helpers prepared the meal and brought it to the group for buffet-style dining. 

“While we ate our stew, mixed vegetables, and even mopane worms which we had seen in the market, Flatter talked about her life,” Gary says. “For decades, she’s been a maid in the home of a wealthy white family.” 

A widow with grown kids, she hosts this Zimbabwean family dinner for travelers once a week as additional income to make ends meet. 

The group was invited to ask Flatter any questions, including how high inflation affects Zimbabwe. The experience offered Gary great insight into typical African life. It ultimately reinforced how we all want and need the same things: a stable home full of love, a good education, and plenty of opportunity for our children. 

“That was a wonderful evening,” he says. 

Now, back home in the United States, Gary wouldn’t hesitate to visit again. “I returned home with a much different feeling about Africa,” he says. “The areas we visited were not nearly as primitive and impoverished as I had originally thought it might be. They have the infrastructure to accommodate tourism, and the people there are happy about that. Go visit. Don’t be afraid to do it.”